Alexandre Lobrano visit Cibo, Dijon, helmed by Angelo Ferrigno, recently named one of the Greats of Tomorrow.

It was in the refectory-like dining room of this luminously beautiful restaurant in a 17th-century stone building in the historic heart of Dijon that I enjoyed my best meal of 2022 so far. From the moment we sat down at our heavy bare wood table with beige linen napkins, everything Chef Angelo Ferrigno sent to the table from his open kitchen was nothing short of spectacular, which hasn’t surprised that in 2016, at the age of 23, he became the youngest French chef to win a Michelin star. This year, Ferrigno, now 29, was crowned one of the Greats of Tomorrow by the other French gastronomic guide and Gault & Millau site.

Despite all these accolades, for me the proof is always in the pudding, or rather in surprisingly original and delicious appetizers like raw catfish with beets, raspberries and shadow knight (Arctic char eggs), the exquisite little bite that started our meal. In one beautiful bite, he showed the raison d’être of Ferrigno’s cuisine, which is a fierce devotion to products created by small independent farmers, cheese makers, fishermen and others, a fierce desire to work with local products season, and an admirable insistence on running an environmentally sustainable kitchen, right down to paying a private company to collect kitchen scraps for composting.

Next on our four course menu were grilled leeks with farmhouse cheese and yellow wine, an earthy but refined constellation of tastes and textures. Zander with grilled Brussels sprouts, citrus fruits and smoked cream was a strangely elegant dish that spoke of wintery Burgundian cemeteries and monasteries, while the liveliness of candied blackcurrants that garnished a fillet of pearled guinea fowl with yellow turnips made a nod to the lush memories of a local summer. Cassis, or cassis, made a final appearance in a dessert of fresh sheep’s cheese with chestnuts and a hairdressing of meringue, a dessert that would surely have delighted Colette, a native of Burgundy whose writings praised the region’s local produce and cuisine.

As I am not trying to sell you tires, road maps or anything else, I hope you will trust me by telling you that this restaurant alone deserves a trip to Dijon, but the prior reservation is essential before you start.

24 rue Jeannin, Dijon
Such. (33) 03-80-28-80-76
Average 70 €
www.cibo.restaurant/en/home/

Excerpt from France Today magazine

Main photo credit: It was at CIBO that Alexandre Lobrano enjoyed his best meal of 2022 to date © Image & Associés

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